Byline: Brian Anderson

Vintage" and "retro" are two terms you'll see repeatedly in this month's feature on fashion tees (page 10). But those buzzwords for this issue of Wearables Business are right at home in this feature on Westernwear - or ranchwear, as it is often called - as well.

As today's hot tee styles are inspired by looks from the '70s, today's top ranchwear styles are draw inspiration from a little farther back: the true, classic American look of the cowboy.

"What's new is what's not new when it comes to Westernwear. It is the Original American Workshirt, inspired by cowboys, but worn by virtually everyone," says Kenny Markanich, president of Nashville-based supplier Capital Apparel. "What makes it unique is that it is an American staple. If you view any designer collection, there will be a part of it that is clearly western inspired. The true changes on the basic solid broadcloth or denim western shirts come from the embroidery or applique that is put onto the shirt - which is endless."

Capital Apparel is the exclusive source in the corporate market for the Ely & Walker, a westernwear brand that has sold at retail for more than 100 years, "which has resulted in westernwear becoming one of the largest growth areas in shirtings for our company," Markanich says.

Kerry Vastine of Denver-based supplier Roper Apparel, another big ranchwear brand that also reaches the corporate market via promotional products distributors, says "retro" looks have been very popular lately in this market, because "retro" styling is "true" western.

"As people get back to their roots, traditional clothing becomes fashionable again. Western yokes, elaborate embroideries, and contrast piping make for unique shirts while making a statement at the same time," Vastine says. Taking a quick look back at the history of the western shirt, Markanich points out that they began as a cowboy work shirt.

"The styling was made for function more than anything," he says. "For instance, the front and back yokes are "V" shaped over the shoulders and back, as they are the parts of the body that the sun hits in the middle of the day when working on the back of a horse. It has snaps instead of buttons on the center front pleat and on the cuffs so the shirt could tear off quickly if a ranch hand got caught on a barbed wire fence, or even the horn of a cow. Embroideries and appliques were added later as those big front and back yokes made for perfect locations to place an image or logo showing which ranch someone worked for."

Westernwear would have to be considered very much a niche product category in the promotional apparel market. But unless you are one of the relatively few promotional products distributors who actively sell ranchwear, it's also a much bigger niche than you think.

Roper, which exhibits at The ASI Show in Las Vegas every year, will continue to do so because Vastine says "it has been very fruitful for us in finding new customers and allowing us to showcase our many products."

But other than that, Vastine says requests from end users for western shirts lead PPDs to Roper.

"The phone call usually starts off something like this: 'Hello? I have a customer who says he wants some western shirts, and I hear you guys make those.' Customers cannot fathom the breadth of product that is western. The uniqueness of product from the 'fashion house' that is Roper cannot be captured in a catalogue. Our 'Classic Western' catalogue contains approximately 120 styles of shirts. Our inventory contains over 2,500 different styles of shirts - styles that are constantly shifting and changing," Vastine says.

Roper encourages and educates its customers to use their website to pick products that are out of the ordinary. "It gives (end users) the opportunity to express themselves and stand out in a crowd."

That brings up a good point. For one-time events, where the customer really wants to make a statement, ranchwear suppliers can often accommodate orders of more unique styles through their seasonal retail lines, as opposed to the "classic" lines that remain in-stock for years to accommodate programs.

Vastine mentions events like western-themed fund-raising parties where charities, wanting to do it up right, dress all the help in eye-catching western shirts.

Markanich adds, "We have had people order western shirts for everything from country/western ho-downs and themed outings to golf tournaments, believe it or not."

He says sometimes the end users may want a unique, seasonal shirt style for a particular rodeo. "For fancy styles not listed in our catalog or our website, we welcome calls at our 800 number (listed at the end of this feature) to check and see what is in stock for immediate delivery."

At Schaefer Outfitter, a supplier based in the decidedly cowboy-flavored ski resort town of Steamboat Springs, Colo., demand in the corporate/promotional market for its authentic ranchwear is often driven by end users requesting the brand from the PPDs they work with, says owner Rick Grant.

"The demand for our product is still be generated through PPD customers vs. PPDs themselves for the most part up and above the core group of PPDs who have always sold Schaefer," Grant says. "It is important to note that the corporate world is seeing more and more of our product due to our rate of growth. Most of these potential accounts have bought as much price-point commodity items as they can stand, and are now looking for quality, premium statement products to offer as dealer incentives, employee recognition, etc.

"Our strength this year has been in ongoing dealer promotions using Schaefer product," Grant conotinues. "We are currently supporting four major national programs, which I know the PPDs are using our products in dealer incentive programs."

Speaking of programs, Roper's Vastine notes that restaurants have been among the most popular users of Roper shirts for uniform with styles that remain in the line.

"Steak houses, barbecue pits, or just good old-fashioned down-home American food restaurants are looking for unique 'uniform' opportunities," Vastine says. "Nothing seems to fit better than traditional western-styled shirts. When the Road Runner restaurant in Las Vegas needed 500 shirts to fit with their 'down-home' charm, they turned to a Roper classic: A black poly-cotton snap shirt embroidered with red roses fit the bill. This particular shirt was originally released by Roper in the late 1950s, and was pulled from the archives and re-released in 2004. The restaurant owners, and all the help have raved about the 'new' uniform."

Besides restaurants, rodeo committees and chili and barbecue teams are a few of the many other avenues Vastine mentions to sell western shirts. Markanich says they can also make good uniforms for stable staff, farm supply companies, or even delivery drivers and truck drivers.

"It is the true American workshirt, and many truck drivers or delivery servicemen will wear one hands down over a polo or T-shirt," Markanich says. "Welders love it because the snaps allow for the shirt to be taken off quickly if a spark flies in the wrong place. Outdoor retreats love a western look as it is both good looking and practical, and has a certain country look that virtually anyone can relate to."

And, as always, don't think "unisex" when it comes to outfitting men and women for the same event or program. There are plenty of women's western styles available that either are a direct match or coordinate with a men's style.

"The ladies category is ever growing for us," says Schaefer Outfitter's Grant. "As a result, we have added five new ladies styles of functional riding outerwear which correspond with the men's styles. We have also added three new ladies shirt styles which correspond with our most popular men's shirtings. The expansion of this category has made it easier for our PPDs to outfit groups featuring both men and women."

Brian Anderson is Senior Managing Editor of Wearables Business.

Prospecting game plan

Rick Grant, owner of Steamboat Springs, Colo.-based ranchwear supplier Schaefer Outfitter, offers the following advice for promotional products distributors interested in targeting end users for ranchwear sales. Of course, Grant's view is to include his own product lines, but these valuable suggestions would work with a variety of suppliers.

With today's technology it's getting easier and easier to target customers with specific products via e-mail, fax and a strong Internet presence.